Chicken Soup for the Pandemic Soul

in our systems and our cycles. Yes, growth and evolution are necessary and inevitable, but they do not have to occur at the expense of sustainability. It seems that the models we are encouraged to worship have a steep exponential curve that only goes in one direction. But nature teaches us that the path forward is not a straight line, it's a circle. And that endless regeneration relies on minimizing waste and maximizing conservation.

Perhaps a pandemic is a harsh way for Mother Nature to drive this point home. At the same time, perhaps we have been ignoring her for too long. Even the best of us have fallen prey to the rapid pace of life and the ease of modern conveniences. This rude awakening is one that nobody can ignore.

And while our industry has been rocked - ranging from the places that have been forced to close to the ones that are working around the clock to service the needs of people at home - there's one thing that is certain: people are doing a lot more home cooking right now.

We love the opportunity to be resourceful and to have the time and space to devote to making food that feeds the soul - like stocks and sourdough bread and homemade fermented foods. They are, by nature, both inexpensive and valuable - but they require the one thing we were not always willing to devote before now: time.

Which leads us to this week's recipe. You've heard the argument about buying 'fancy' chicken. While it's alluring to get a whole rotisserie bird for $7.99, you have to wonder: at what cost? While we believe in conserving funds, we also believe in investing in things that matter - if you are going to eat animals, raising them in a sustainable way is worth the added expense.

Our $5 / lb birds get us far. Our ritual is to spatchcock the chicken (for faster / more even roasting) and immediately set aside the back / neck / wingtips for stock. Our little family can easily eat the thighs + legs + wings for dinner (as well as all the skin; it's a rule in our house that you must eat the crispy skin on the first night, because it is never as good after it's been chilled) and save the breasts for another meal (typically chicken salad or shredded chicken for tacos) but can also be used in the application below. Don't forget to save all of the bones. In this way, you can feed at least a few people at least a few meals, making that $20+ bird seem much more affordable.

When making chicken stock I often use the Instant Pot, but it's just as easy on the stove. A way to make your dollars stretch even further is to always have a bag of scraps going in your freezer. I toss in carrots tops and peels, onion scraps, and the bottom and tops that I trim off celery. Potato peels also add great flavor. This allows you to make use of what you might have otherwise composted or discarded. Every little bit helps (and you can still compost those items after you've extracted the flavor in the stock).

As with many kitchen staples, I feel like everyone has their own version of chicken soup. In particular my go-to style is really fresh and light. And always nourishing.

CHICKEN SOUP
serves 8 cups or 4 big bowls

INGREDIENTS

a few glugs of olive oil + a small knob of butter
1 medium sweet onion, cut in half and then into strips
2 carrots, cut into coins on the bias
2 celery stalks, cut into coins on the bias
1 spring rosemary or thyme
8 cups chicken stock
2 cooked chicken breasts, shredded
1 bunch of curly kale, ribbed and roughly chopped

INSTRUCTIONS

Heat a pot over medium heat and add olive oil and butter. When butter melts add the onion and cook for a few minutes until translucent.
Add the carrots and the celery, season with a little bit of seal salt, and cook for a few more minutes until tender. Add the herbs.
Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Add chicken breasts and simmer for a few minutes until the chicken is warmed through.
Divide kale among bowls. Remove the herbs from the pot. Ladle soup over the raw kale and let it sit / cool for a minute or two. Finish with sea salt and freshly cracked pepper.

THERE IS SOMETHING BROKEN . . .

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