The answer has only become more complicated over time.
 

I recently picked up the latest issue of Edible Rhody, a magazine that proudly “celebrates the local food of the Ocean State.” The winter 2022 issue featured Mozz Formaggi e Pane, Ocean State Pepper Company, and Yagi noodles, making it clear that their “loose” definition of local meant including food businesses and initiatives that were within driving distance for a Rhode Island food writer.

By loose, I don't mean that this term is devoid of meaning, but rather that its multiple iterations depend on the context in which it is used. For example, mozzarella produced in the state, ingredients of a spice mix sourced from nearby farms, and noodles made in-house often fit the definition of food produced in the vicinity, but one has to agree that “local” means more than travel time.

There may be no one definition that fully captures our understanding of the term, and the complexity involved in defining it adds to the noise of confusion. I believe that, in the end, “local” is simple, intuitive, and understood by most. If we go a little back in time, when transport of produce was not usual, eating local food was a necessity and not a luxury. The usage of the terms “Eat Local” and “Local food” started gathering a lot of momentum in the 1900s and 2000s with the emergence of the slow food movement and has only seen an upward trend after that.

The proponents of the slow food movement: good (quality, flavorsome and healthy food), clean (a production that does not harm the environment), and fair (accessible prices for consumers and fair conditions and pay for producers), can be conveniently used to describe features of local food as well. Moving beyond travel time, good, fair, and clean add a much-needed layer to our understanding of local. And deep diving into these ideas mentioned above can give us a more nuanced perspective of local food.

The features of good, clean, and fair food systems bleed into each other. For instance, good quality and flavorful food can mean food produced with care and not grown in reckless amounts, which also makes it clean. And the fact that it will eventually be fairer might seem counterintuitive in this world where local food is a luxury and not a norm.

Another aspect rarely accounted for in the discussion of local food is a celebration of different cuisines and cultures - a celebration of diversity, and, most importantly, preservation of biodiversity (of the planet and our diets). In her book, Can Fixing Dinner Fix the Planet?, Dr. Jessica Fanzo explains, “Food production based on local knowledge, culture, and values can lead to the revival of nutritious traditional diets, offering consumers healthier choices. Traditional foods, apart from being vehicles of our cultures, may also possess health qualities since tradition rarely honors foods that are not palatable and healthy.”

In light of so much chatter about local food, a question still arises: How can we move beyond a convenient definition of “local” and strive toward a good, clean, and fair food system that celebrates diversity, preserves biodiversity, and provides us with healthier choices? It's a question that carries a lot of weight, but also nudges us to look around for answers - and find treasures of knowledge in our surroundings.

. . .

We are thrilled and grateful to have collaborated with Singhi through our Share Your Voice initiative, an ongoing effort inspired by the #sharethemicnow movement. Stay tuned for more in this series in the coming months.
 

Yours in food, justice, and food justice,

Tay + Dor

photo by Rini Singhi

tidbits...

resources on anti-racism, environmentalism and food culture AKA stuff we're reading / listening to / watching / noticing / thinking about / captivated by this Tuesday . . .

Aubrey Hirsch is back with a new graphic essay on women and aging.

If you're compelled to look more closely, you might like Rob Walker's "Art of Noticing" newsletter.

Ashtin Berry continues to bring the nuance in spirited discussions around food and hospitality. 

All week we've been thinking about what we could accomplish together if a majority of people just went on strike. And while we wonder, the students are organizing. See the Students Demand Action Walkout Toolkit, learn from the ways that they mobilize into action for positive change, and join them for the National School Walkout Wednesday April 5th at noon. 

Transgender Day of Visibility may be over - but every day is one where it is important to stand up for the rights of trans people.

View and share this free guide to How to Write a More Equitable Job Post, and stay tuned for new resources to deepen this work.

"We have to preserve our individuality, the Indigenous quality of our food because it is only then would people come to know about our culture and tradition." Read the latest GFJ Story on Axone, or Akhuni, a fermented soya bean paste that illuminates the politics of translating 'stinky' foods to unaccustomed palates. Words by Makepeace Sitlhou, photos by Devraj Chaliha.

got a tidbit? drop it here for us and we'll share it in next week's newsletter.